Lace cardigan

A lightweight cardigan designed for lace. It also needed to be simple because I had to do the whole project in a hurry.

I didn't draft a pattern for this. I drew a sketch with measurements based on other clothes, sewed up a toile, and refined the design from there. I took a leap of faith, because the toile, made in a polyester knit that was significantly less flowing than the lace, looked awful. It didn't drape nicely at all. I hoped that the shape would appear when the cardigan was made up in the lace. Happily, the lace version turned out in line with my expectations.

I considered underlining, but decided to keep just the lace. I'm happy with that decision.

To keep it very lightweight and because I was in a hurry, I didn't add any interfacing or facing at the front. I think this was a mistake as the center front seems to need reinforcing. I received suggestions to add a ribbon or lace trim and intend to try one of those.

I haven't sewn lace before. It sewed up quite easily, but was very fiddly to lay out and stripe match.

Halterneck-ish top WIP

I love this top.

I'm still working on the pattern. I'm trying to develop a collar rather than strap over the shoulders, but that requires some work on getting the shaping right. I like this version too.

I'm not sure that tucks of the style I used on the back are the best for this type of fabric. They would probably look much better if I managed to stitch them straight, but I'm still not sure.

 I'm really happy with the top, even if has a few faults.

Tank top with gathered front panel

 
Tank top with princess seams, gathered center front panel.

Princess seams for design interest and shaping. I included a gathered front panel for design interest and to reduce the transparency of the quite sheer jersey. I don't think it turned all that well.

The fabric is a very lightweight rayon jersey.

Next time I will try it with a plain front and a firmer fabric.

Then neckline is not as drafted. I don't like the shape very much, but it was a successful save of the original neckline, which stretched and flopped. I tried a turned over edge for the first version and it seems to have been a poor choice. The finished version is a band.

I'm quite comfortable sewing jersey, but this very lightweight one was not very easy to sew. My sewing was less than accurate, but I found the top quite forgiving of my errors (trained eyes may beg to differ!).

In a future gathered version, I would like to modify so the drape starts from the shoulder seam and includes a bit of a cowl at the neckline. I wasn't willing to spend the time to develop that this time around.
 
I'm not excited about the top, but will probably end up wearing it until I fill out my wardrobe with tops I like better. It feels nice to wear and should work well enough as a casual top.

Skirt

Slightly flared skirt with arched yoke. No closure.

Shaped yoke intended for fit and design. The front turned out just I envisioned, but the back was a compromise. My first draft got the fit right, but didn't look good because it was too low. The back yoke slightly cuts into my butt rather than skimming over. I didn't notice it until I finished the final skirt. Once I'd seen it, I could tell on the toile as well.

There is no zipper. I originally intended use an invisible zipper at the CB, but realized I could fit it on over my head (forgot to leave a side seam open on a toile). I should have just put the zipper, because pulling it on immediately introduces creases.

Overall, it is not particularly flattering.
 
Despite lots of sampling, I had plenty of sewing woes that had nothing to do with the pattern. Inexperience was probably the main problem. My flat-felled side seams were a disaster. I ripped out my first attempt as the folded over part escaped in many sections. I lost my nerve when I redid it and decided on "decorative" zigzag stitch. The seam then ended up wavy. The waves disappeared with steam pressing, but I worried they would reappear when the skirt was worn. Luckily, after I wore the skirt for a day, the waves did not reappear.


Big effort, average result.

Knit summer pants

I became obsessed with the idea of a pair of wide leg pants in a crazy fabric, which is not something I have ever worn. I have now satisfied that obsession.

Semi-fitted over stomach, hips, loose to hem. Closure by invisible zipper at side. I wanted a shaped yoke, rather than elastic or a band to avoid cinching over my hips. I wanted the legs to be wide, without excess fabric on inside leg. The outseam falls straight to the hem. The inseam angles toward the knee, then falls straight.

One issue with the faced yoke design and side zipper is that it is not easy to take in. I went ahead with those features anyway, with the logic that if I changed to a design that would be easy to take in, the need would never arise. My logic proved true, but in reverse, as a month or so later, I and need to take them in. On a related note, a few days after I finished them, I read info that made me think I should have used stay tape as well as the interfacing on the yoke (I used a cotton lawn) because the interfacing alone would not provide enough stability to keep them up. To top things off, the zipper got stuck the last time I tried to take them off. So I have three reasons to redo the yoke and zip.

The fabric is very lightweight. I wasn't sure it was suitable and considered underlining. I chose not to underline to keep them light and cool. I will have to wait and see whether the pants are durable.

I need to redraft the waist line of the yoke. The shape is a little odd at the back, in particular.

I am super happy with these pants!

So far, I have only worn them to the supermarket and felt extremely self-conscious. But I do love them, so will try to work up the courage to wear them more!